Perfume Portrait: Serge Lutens "La Fille de Berlin"

For quite some time there has been out a perfume by Serge Lutens that it is called "La Fille de Berlin". I am devoted Serge Lutens' admirer when it comes to his perfumes and its creations happen to be part of my daily favourites. This perfume is like a best friend to me - the one you could take with you wherever you are headed to. "La Fille de Berlin" is the mixture of rose, pepper and that is all the perfumer has revealed when it comes to its ingredients list. 

I have other Lutens' perfumes in my collection where the components have rose in it, for example "Sa majeste la rose" and " Santal majuscle". "La Fille de Berlin" is utterly mesmeric - first it catches looks with its bottle, reddish perfume definitely stands out from your perfume stand. Lutens has described the scent like so: "She is a rose with thornes, don't mess with her. She is a girl who goes to extremes. When she can, she shootes; and when she wants ... ! Her frangrance lifts you higher, she rocks and shocks."

Aroma is truly strong and smacking indeed. Yet I wouldn't say it is a perfume to wear with colder weathers, it fits perfectly when it is warm outside. When it comes to mixing perfumes, people have different opinions, but I have worn "La Fille de Berline" with adding the littlest amount of Lutens' "Un Bois Vanille", which has all the good ingredients along with Mexican vanilla and coconut milk in it. Few years ago in Paris I was encouraged by a perfume consultant to mix my perfumes and from that time I have mixed few of my perfumes with great bravery.

Serge Lutens mentions a woman who wears a pant suit and is downright feminine, when talking about this scent. A lot of beauty editors and bloggers have thought that Lutens got his inspiration from Marlene Dietrich when creating this perfume. To me it associates with another woman. I imagine English Rose - Princess Diana and a time when she wasn't a princess yet. 

FOTO: Meisi Volt

Year was, 1981, evening of July, 28th. 

The next day Diana Spencer got married with Prince Charles. Tina Brown's book "The Diana Chronicles" describes how the evening before their wedding Diana stayed alone in the Clarence House and felt rather lonely. So she went to wander throgh the big house. Widowed Queen's varlet William Tallon reminds how he saw Diana walking alone and asked her to join with him and equerry to have ad drink with them. Tallon said he asked Diana: "Should we take a bracer?" After that Tallon and equerry poured couple strong drinks to themselves, but Diana decided to have an orange juice instead. Men recall that princess-to-be was so happy and suddenly noticed equerry's bicycle. She grabbed the bicycle and rode rounds thorugh the Clarence House's courtyard, ringed the bell and sang: "Tomorrow I will get married to the Prince of Wales!" Ring-ring! William Tallon has told to the author of "The Diana Chronicles": "Even now I can hear the bell of the bicycle. You know, she was just a child, just a little girl." 

If I sniff this perfume today, I rememeber that sweet story I just wrote you about. No doubt, that on that evening when joyful English Rose Diana cruised on the bicycle though Clarence House's yard, that perfume would have been perfect on her. This scent has been described as a thorny, frantic and spicy, something that goes to extreme - exactly those qualities that Princess Diana had.

Serge Lutensil on juba mõnda aega väljas uus parfüüm "La Fille de Berlin". Olen jäägitu Lutensi lõhnade austaja ja tema looming on sageli minu igapäevases valikus. Minu jaoks on parfüüm nagu parim sõber - ikka selline, kellega läheks luurele.

"La Fille de Berlin" on segu roosist ja piprast, rohkem komponente pole lõhnalooja sel korral avaldanud.  Minu Lutensi kollektsioonis on veel teisigi parfüüme, kus üheks komponendiks roos, näiteks "Sa majeste la rose" ja "Santal majuscule". "La Fille de Berlin" on äärmiselt lummav - esmalt köidab ta pilku - punakas parfüüm on peeglilaual teiste lõhnade seas omalaadne. Lutens on lõhna kohta kirjutanud nii: "Ta on okastega roos, keda ei tasu kiusata. Ta on ekstreemne naine. Kui ta saab, siis leevendab ja kui ta tahab siis ...! Tema aroom tõstab sind kõrgustesse ja vapustab." 

Aroom on tõepoolest mõnusalt tugev ja tummine. Kuid ma ei lahterdaks seda lõhna jahedate ilmade parfüümiks, see sobib ideaalselt ka sooja ilmaga. Lõhnade miksimisse suhtuvad inimesed väga erinevalt, kuid mina olen "La Fille de Berlini" kandnud ka nii, et olen sellele lisanud pisut Lutensi lõhna "Un Bois Vanille", kus kõige hea ja parema seas annavad nooti Mehhiko vanilje ja kookospiim. Üks lõhna konsultant julgustas mind paar head aastat tagasi Pariisis lõhnu segama ja olen üsna julgelt sellest ajast paari kindlat lõhna omavahel seganud. 

Serge Lutens räägib lõhna silmas pidades naisest, kes kannab pükskostüümi ja on üdini naiselik. Paljud ilutoimetajad ja blogijad on leidnud, et Lutens on saanud lõhna loomisel inspiratsiooni Marlene Dietrichist. Minule seostub see lõhn aga sootuks ühe teise naisega. Mulle kangastub selle parfüümiga inglise roos - printsess Diana ja iseäranis üks seik ajast, mil temast polnud veel printsess saanud. 

Aasta 1981, 28. juuli õhtu 

Järgmisel päeval abiellub lady Diana Spencer prints Charlesiga. Tina Browni teos "Diana ajaraamat" kirjeldab, kuidas oma pulma eelõhtul jäi Diana üksi Clarence House`i ja kuna ta tundis end üksildasena, läks ta maja peale hulkuma. Leskkuninganna paaž William Tallon meenutab, kuidas ta nägi Dianat üksi jalutamas ning kutsus tulevase printsessi enda ja koos talliülemaga väikest drinki võtma. Tallonil on meeles, kuidas ta küsis Dianalt: "Kas võtame ühe napsi ka?" Seejärel valasid talliülem ja Tallon endale kangemad napsid, Diana jõi aga klaasi apelsinimahla. Mehed meenutavad, et tulevane printsess oli väga õnnelik ja märkas äkitselt talliülema jalgratast, ta istus rattale ning sõitis Clarence House`i hoovis üha ringiratast, helistas kella ja laulis: "Ma abiellun homme Walesi printsiga!" Trill-trill! William Tallon on "Diana ajaraamatu" autorile rääkinud: "Ma kuulen praegugi seda rattakella helinat. Teate, ta oli lihtsalt üks laps, lihtsalt üks väike tüdruk."

Kui ma täna seda parfüümi nuusutan, meenub mulle just see armas seik, millest sulle äsja kirjutasin. Pole kahtlust, et sel õhtul, kui rõõmsameelne inglise roos Diana Clarence House`i hoovis jalgrattaga ringi sõitis, sobinuks just see parfüüm talle. Seda lõhna on kirjeldatud ka kui okkalist, pöörast ja vürtsikat, midagi, mis läheb ekstreemsusteni - täpselt need omadused olid ka Dianal. 

Millised on sinu kokkupuuted Serge Lutensi parfüümidega? Kas oled vahel ka lõhnu omavahel miksinud? Lutensi lõhnadest olen varem kirjutanud SIIN.